This is very ripe, indeed to the point where there are mocha and ripe but not roasted plum notes as well as hints of menthol, warm earth and wood spice with superbly dense, powerful and exceptionally rich flavors underpinned by suave tannins and the classic touch of youthful austerity on the finish which is partially buffered by a hint of sweetness. This is a big, impressive and notably ripe wine yet there is good focus and plenty of muscle without being rustic or foursquare.

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The 2005 Clos Vougeot from Drouhin's two parcels in that famous cru, is much more earthy and less fine-grained than the majority of their wines from this vintage, but it exhibits impressive concentration. A bone meal-like meld of mineral and meat dominates the nose and suffuses the palate along with black raspberry, plum and cherry fruit accepted by faintly bitter fruit pit notes. This is quite full and rich, but without being heavy; overtly tannic and chewy, but without being coarse. A promising more tart than sweet juiciness of black fruit mingles with roasted meat and stony, chalky minerality in the finish.

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Well-marked by oak, with a core of sweet cherry and black currant flavors, all backed by a firmly tannic structure. Yet this remains elegant and needs time to integrate all its components.

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