($70-$80) Good red-ruby. Plum, flint, smoke, tobacco, menthol and nutty oak on the nose. Fat, sweet, plummy and rich; offers unusual volume for this property, not to mention terrific depth of flavor. A large-scaled, very supple Domaine de Chevalier that finishes with substantial ripe tannins. This should evolve slowly but should be less austere in its youth than the wines made here before Stephane Derenoncourt was brought in as consultant.

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Perhaps the finest wine made at this estate in many years (no doubt due to the influence of wine consulting guru Stephane Derenoncourt), the 2005 is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest primarily Merlot with tiny portions of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. A dark ruby/purple hue is followed by a classic Graves bouquet of charcoal, graphite, creosote, smoked herbs, sweet black cherries, and spice box. The wine is elegant on the attack, but fills out beautifully with a multilayered, rich mouthfeel, silky tannins, and a plush, opulent finish. This brilliant claret may turn out to be even better than my score suggests.

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Displays floral, blackberry and mineral aromas, with a hint of fresh tobacco. Full-bodied, with supersilky tannins and a long, caressing finish. Has a fine, polished texture. This is a class act--the best since 1998 for the red. Best after 2012. 10,000 cases made

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This wine has aged nicely and is ready to drink. Great plums, black currants and the tannins have smoothed out nicely. Everything is in place.