($68-$105; 95% grenache and 5% mourvedre) Inky ruby. Stunningly fragrant bouquet of fresh red berries, cherry, minerals, Asian spices and fresh flowers; with its combination of power and purity, this smells like a Musigny. Deeply concentrated raspberry and cherry flavors are complicated by anise, cinnamon and floral pastille, with big but interwoven tannins adding grip. Finishes with outstanding silky persistence and a strong red berry character.

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The dark ruby 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee du Papet exhibits a big, sweet nose of roasted meats, licorice, Provencal herbs, black cherry, raspberry, and currant. The wine is medium to full-bodied, deep, moderately tannic, but very elegant and fresh. It should drink well for close to two decades. From one of the archconservative bastions of traditionalism in Chateauneuf du Pape, these are classic old-style Chateauneuf du Papes bursting at the seams with sweet cherry notes, roasted Provencal herbs, licorice, and resiny, loamy, earthy scents. These wines age surprisingly well; certainly the 1990 Cuvee du Papet in my cellar is one of the most monumental Chateauneuf du Papes ever made. 2006 looks to be a very good vintage for the Sabon brothers.

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Has lots of grip, with a very stony undertow carrying notes of wet pebble, sweet earth, licorice, coffee and fig. Pretty lavender and spice box hints flitter in the background as well. Dark and chewy on the finish for now, this needs time to settle into itself.

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