($90) Deep red. Dark cherry, cassis, cola and graphite on the nose, with a deeper licorice quality building with air. Deep, rich and smoky, with chewy cherry and dark berry flavors firmed by dusty tannins. Becomes more peppery with air, showing its syrah side, as it did last year. This one will require patience.

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One of the candidates for the wine of the vintage is the extraordinary 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape La Combe des Fous (same blend and elevage). Probably the best cuvee of this wine yet made, the wine has a saturated purple color to the rim as well as an extraordinary nose of blackberry, blueberry, black truffle, incense, lavender, and a hint of graphite. The wine is remarkably concentrated, spectacularly pure, full-bodied, with amazing length of well over a minute. This wine is a "wow, wow" sort of wine, a profoundly great Chateauneuf du Pape.

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This is loaded with notes of fig cake, braised chestnut, boysenberry and raspberry ganache, and dark licorice, all held together by dense, ripe tannins. The powerful finish turns even darker, with espresso and baker's chocolate notes providing a pleasant tinge of bitterness on the frame.

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This is fabulous juice. Rich, aromatic, palate busting fruit with great structure and tannins. Delicate and muscular at the same time.