($208) Vivid gold. Smoky pear and nectarine aromas are sharpened by lemon zest and deepened by toasty lees. Vibrant orchard and tropical fruit flavors pick up a citrus edge with air, but also gain a deep, honeyed quality. Becomes more mineral-driven and firm on the finish, which echoes the honey and lemon qualities. Talk about complex!

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An amazing effort is the 2005 Ermitage Cuvee de l'Oree. This should flirt with perfection given its nose of white peach liqueur intermixed with quince, acacia flower, hazelnut, and honeysuckle. This amazingly full-bodied, powerful wine has zesty acidity and a tannic structure which is exquisite. It will be a 50+-year wine.

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