($56) Yellow-gold. Spicy apple and pear aromas are brightened by mint and anise, with a ripe, buttery quality emerging with air. Fleshy and round, with deep honeyed pear and brioche flavors. Turns warm on the finish (this is 16.4% alcohol) but doesn't lose shape. Leaves behind a trace of pungent tarragon, and a lightly bitter pear skin quality. I'd drink this on the young side, and with a decent chill.

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A Batard-Montrachet look-alike is the 2005 Chardonnay Sweeney Canyon. This full-bodied, powerful white boasts an amazing liqueur of minerals intermixed with bees' wax, honeysuckle, marmalade, and lemon butter. With an attractive citrus/orange rind character, and a full-bodied, layered, super-duper mouthfeel as well as richness, it is a stunning Chardonnay to consume over the next 6-10 years.

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Fragrant and complex, with floral aromas of lemon, pebble, citrus and green apple that are delivered on a beam. Tightly wound and sharply focused, this is long and persistent on the finish, with excellent acidity.

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