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($355) Good full red. Pure aromas of dark, wild raspberry, candied cherry, smoke, game and mint, all lifted by an ineffable floral perfume. Wonderfully rich, fat and voluminous, combining great sappy cut with an utterly spherical, silky texture (yes, my note says this is possible). The rising finish features great palate-staining length, a chewy impression of extract and endless subtlety. This extremely intense wine shut down in my glass, but was once again spectacular when I retasted it a few hours later.

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Mid crimson. Lustrous look. Very firm and manly - the butch side of Pinot?! Firm and striated with iron. Straight-backed stuff, no sweet soppiness here. Very rich and spicy and alluring. Juicy and sumptuous and, ok, there's still a hint of oak but this is such wonderful stuff it's a real treat to be tasting it. So neat and long and although it is not luscious, it is not painfully dry. So rich yet structured. True spice, not tarty stuff. Only 500 cases made.

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Rousseau's 2005 Chambertin - assembled from four parcels, three of them in relatively cool, well-ventilated portions of this cru - offers high-toned aromas of plum distillate, tea and marzipan, but on the palate, chalk, raw beef, dried plum, bitter-sweet black fruits and roasted fennel flavors combine for a low-registered richness. This is the creamiest, plushest, most voluminous, and perhaps in the final analysis deepest wine of this year's Rousseau collection, with a savory meatiness, chalky minerality and a well of fruit impossible to plumb at such an early stage in what will certainly be three or more decades of testimony to the true greatness of this famous site.

Professional content appears courtesy of Vinfolio

Professional content appears courtesy of Vinfolio