($74) Inky purple. Explosively perfumed nose displays an exotic array of red and dark berry preserves, candied flowers and incense. Deep and chewy, with concentrated blackberry and licorice flavors. Supple tannins provide a gentle framework but this is dominated by its remarkable depth of sweet fruit today. Alban aged this in 75% new French oak, but I don't find a trace of it. When I mentioned that I have found recent vintages of this wine to have an almost syrah-like character, Alban responded that "since 2000, there's no question that the grenache here has become more powerful, probably due to the increased maturity of the vines."

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The outstanding 2005 Grenache (a whopping 260 six-bottle cases produced) includes about 15% Syrah in the blend. More structured, restrained, and backward than either the 2004 or 2006, the 2005 possesses plenty of tannin along with enormous quantities of black cherry and blackberry fruit, medium to full body, good acidity, and a long, fresh finish. I am not a great believer in aging California Grenache for more than 10-12 years, but this cuvee may run the path effectively. In fact, it probably needs several years of bottle age in order to resolve some of its tannin.

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Smoke, tar, wild berry and dried currant provide a dense, meaty core of flavor, with some hefty tannins. This clearly requires time and patience. 300 cases made.

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