($80; 100% syrah) Red-ruby. High-toned aromas of crushed wild cherry, pepper, dill, woodsmoke and black olive. Dense, lively and aromatic in the mouth, with dominant flavors of pepper and tapenade. This has a delicacy of texture that reminded me of a Saint-Joseph from granite, and plenty of energy and lift. Fans of fuller-bodied California syrahs may be put off by the wine's penetrating quality.