Author: Allen Meadows
Issue: Issue 30
(from 85+ year old vines planted in deep sandy soil with dense but small rocks) As is usually the case, this is not nearly as seductive as the Clos des Chênes but it's more complex and with better overall depth of material beginning with the reserved, densely fruited and layered red pinot fruit aromas nuanced by hints of spice and earth that lead to mineral infused, sweet and delicious medium full flavors that are refined yet quite serious, all wrapped in a linear and penetrating finish that is borderline strict at present. This will clearly require a few more years in the cellar to round out but the potential is indisputable. An elegant Champans for the patient.
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International Wine Cellar
Author: Stephen Tanzer
Issue: Issue 137
($130) Deep ruby-red. High-toned, slightly resiny nose hints at superripe cherry and oak, with complicating notes of shoe polish and licorice. Powerful, chewy and deep, with a slightly medicinal quality and a bit less early personality and obvious sweetness than the Clos des Chenes. This big but youthfully closed wine finishes with building tannins.
Author: David Schildknecht
The 2005 Volnay Champans was another wine part of which Lafon racked to tank so as to encourage completion of malo, after which that portion went back to barrel in early January. Two thirds of his half a hectare in Champans is planted with 85 year-old vines. Typically for this site, the nose is generous with mushroom and forest floor, but there is also a wealth of flowers and of blackberry and strawberry fruit, which follow onto the palate in a briskly-concentrated form. Beef and mushroom stock, wet stone, moss, and wood smoke anchor the lower-range of this complex Volnay, wine beautifully 2005 in its combination of freshness of fruit yet darkly-hued, walk-in-the-forest personality. I would plan on 7-10 years in the cellar.
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