International Wine Cellar
Author: Stephen Tanzer
Issue: Issue 137
($355) Good full red. Briary raspberry, dark cherry and menthol on the nose, along with a medicinal reserve. Powerful and thick on entry, then quite closed, even medicinal, in the middle, without the exotic character that this cuvee often shows in the early going. Quite closed today but this utterly seamless, superrich wine boasts superb structure and grip. Wonderfully long and pure on the back end, with strong but perfectly integrated acidity. Give this impeccably balanced wine 12 years.
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Author: Jancis Robinson
Real mass and density here. Absolutely classic, solid, dry, sappy, savoury burgundy in one of its longest-living registers. Solid Gevrey charge of chewable fruit – nothing sweet and beguiling about this! It’s almost self-consciously ponderous, in fact. This wine pronounces rather than tries to charm – surprisingly expressive already. Big!
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