Big, massive in build and very ambitious in scale. So much more complex! Very good wine with a dry finish. Pretty glorious.

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Wonderful aromas of pineapple, apple and lemon, with loads of botrytis. Full-bodied, but very refined, superfresh and racy. Goes on and on. Fabulous. Incredible purity and brightness. Like a perfectly cut diamond. Pierre Lurton, the manager of Yquem as well as Cheval-Blanc, really wanted to mark his arrival at the legendary estate, so he went to draconian lengths to deliver something superb in 2004. (He reduced the crop by half, so probably fewer than 75,000 bottles will be produced).

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First taste/day one: definitely light as a feather but very wound up. Pear, honey, nectarine, honeysuckle, creme brulee on the nose. Slinks along the front palate and lingers with a finish of fresh, ripe apricot.