($45) Dark red. Intense strawberry and raspberry aromas, with complicating suggestions of tapenade and smoked meat. Full and deep, with lush bitter cherry and blackcurrant flavors complicated by a hint of game. Finishes on a sweet cherry note, with suave tannins and very good length. (Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ)

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The 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape is similar in style to their 1999 but with more power. A cedary, sweet bouquet of herbes de Provence, roasted meats, kirsch liqueur, resiny notes, and perhaps incense as well, jumps from the glass of this medium to full-bodied, fragrant, savory style of wine. Its tannins are present and persistent but sweet and well-integrated. The wine reveals outstanding concentration, purity, and plenty of Provencal typicity. It should drink well for 10-15 years.

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Tight on the nose, but with a great beam of red and black fruits, as well as hoisin sauce, olive, cocoa, tar and raspberry ganache. Long, lush finish pumps out darker and darker fruit. Has the racy profile of the vintage, but its range sets it apart. 4,500 cases made.

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