($68; 100% merlot) Inky ruby. Ripe, concentrated and vibrant aromas of black cherry, raspberry, milk chocolate and flowers. Red fruit and spice flavors are complicated by a delicate smoky nuance on the back end, with plenty of acidity and sweet tannins keeping the wine lithe and long on the palate. The numbers tell part of the story of this refined merlot: 6.3 grams per liter of total acidity, a very high 31.6 grams of dry extract, and a late harvest on September 27 and 28.

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The 2004 Ricolma (100% Merlot) possesses stunning aromatics and layers of blackberry liqueur, minerals, chocolate and sweet toasted oak. Vibrant and shimmering on the palate, it shows plenty of Tuscan structure to support the fruit, with phenomenal length and ripe, sweet tannins to round out the finish. It is another stunning wine from San Giusto a Rentennano.

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Aromas of blackberry, barley and rose follow through to a full body, with chewy tannins and a long finish. Loads of new wood. Needs time.

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