($125) Bright ruby-red. Complex, sweet nose combines black cherry, blackcurrant, gravel, licorice and graphite. Silky, minerally and sweet, with terrific intensity and thrust, not to mention inner-mouth energy. Finishes with a firm spine of ripe tannins and very persistent, mouthcoating fruits and minerals. This is a full 15.3% alcohol but I never would have guessed it. Interestingly, associate winemaker Gonzalez told me he particularly likes the power of the 2003 reds here, "especially in their youth." But this has real verve.

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It weighs in at 15 per cent alcohol, yet with nary a hint of heat. Unapologetically ripe, it also has tremendous concentration and focus – even elegance – and sturdy tannins, with rich cassis and black cherry, liquorice, vanillin and very refreshing acidity. Generous and delicious now, it also has the backbone for at least another 10 years. (LM)$125

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A blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot, the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, which mostly comes from To-Kalon, has a relatively small production in this vintage (7,500 cases). The wine has a dense purple color and a wonderful, sweet, almost St.-Julien like nose of licorice, red and black currants, cedar, and spice. Medium to full-bodied, elegant, but authoritatively flavored, this wine is still young, rich, and very fine.

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Weaves together a complex array of ripe, rich currant, anise, smoky oak and black cherry. Dense, concentrated and persistent, with great depth and focus. Ends with an amazingly long, richly flavored finish. 8,688 cases made.

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