(from two different vineyards within the Sonoma Coast - 760 cases produced and bottled at 14.4%; $40) This is very subtly complex on the presently reserved nose, featuring notes of spice, earth, somber berry aromas and interesting sauvage hints that complement the rich, full and equally wild flavors that possess ample character if not great elegance or complexity. Still, this has real personality and distinctiveness that you will not find elsewhere.

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($40) Good deep ruby-red. Sappy aromas of black raspberry, mocha, coffee, cola and earth; shows a liqueur-like sweetness without coming across as heavy. Very ripe and silky, with black fruit flavors currently dominated by mocha, chocolate and underbrush. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins.

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A blended effort, the light, delicate 2004 Pinot Noir La Neblina (from Dijon clones) offers lovely cranberry and cherry fruit, good sweetness, medium body, and an accessibility that suggests drinking over the next 3-4 years.

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Supple, graceful and harmonious, with a rich, elegant band of black cherry, blackberry, red plum, spice and hazelnut. Impresses with its caressing texture and understated elegance. 760 cases made.

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Disappointing. The wine had no body or complexity. The color was almost watered down.