Green-tinged pale yellow color. Tight, bright aromas of crystallized pineapple and lemon peel. Fatter and larger-scaled than the Cuvee Indigene, but less open and more discreet today despite its superb depth of flavor and impression of power. But this very dry, classic, youthfully unevolved wine boasts outstanding thickness, concentration and chewiness of texture, not to mention great length. I'd lay this one down for at least two or three years before pulling the cork.

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The powerful 2004 Chardonnay Point Rouge is unevolved and backward with high acidity. It behaves like a young red wine in the mouth, revealing plenty of tannin, huge body, and loads of creme brulee, tangerine, lemon grass, buttered citrus, and smoky hazelnut characteristics. This stunning Chardonnay will age well for 7-10 years.

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