($150) Deep ruby. Sexy blackcurrant and boysenberry aromas with complicating tobacco and espresso tones. Lush and sweet, with dark fruit flavors, full body and dense, chewy tannins providing support. Turns silky with air, picking up more energetic red fruit tones and a light suggestion of iron. Finishes suave, focused and long, the blackcurrant note repeating. Luc Morlet compares this to the 2001 version.

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The 2004 Les Pavots is ripe and is a relatively similar blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The wine exhibits notes of forest floor intermixed with chocolate, blueberry, blackberry, espresso, and spice. It is strikingly more tannic, and closed compared to the 2005, which is almost the reverse of the vintage character. There were only 2,000 cases produced of the 2004, which needs 2-3 years of bottle age and should drink well for 15+ years.

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Shows complex aromas of dried currant, sage, anise and cedary oak. Very dense, balanced and concentrated on the palate, with a tight focus on the loamy currant flavors. Ends with firm, chewy tannins, but the fruit pushes through. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

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