($75) Medium, slightly hazy yellow. Crystallized citrus peel, underripe pineapple, spices and a whiff of minerals on the nose. Then juicy, sweet and intense, with fruit-driven flavors of peach and nectarine complicated by liquid stone and saline notes. Wonderfully glyceral wine with a very long finish of stone, minerals and peach. This will deepen in pitch as it evolves in bottle.

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The exquisite 2004 Chardonnay La Carriere has gained in stature since I tasted it last year. Luckily, there are about 2,250 cases of this beauty in both 2004 and 2005. Again, crushed rocks, orange marmalade, lemon blossom, white peach, and subtle wood aromas and flavors emerge from this full-bodied, fresh Chardonnay. While extraordinarily rich yet light on its feet, it should drink well for 5-6 years.

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A subtle, polished young wine that offers glimpses of mineral, fig, apricot and melon that are rich and soothing, finishing with a creamy texture and long aftertaste. 1,080 cases made.

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Glorious.