($75; 100% whole clusters, from what Mahle describes as a gravelly spot and the first to be picked; features 16.2% alcohol and a pH of 4.15) Saturated ruby. Tarry, raw cassis and kirsch complicated by star anise, pepper and a whiff of white fruit on the nose. Highly concentrated and densely packed, with powerful dark fruit flavors complicated by spices, pepper, minerals, burnt cinders and sexy woodsmoke. Distinctly feral wine ("the evil side of syrah," comments Mahle). Finishes with outsized tannins.

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The 2004 Syrah Alder Springs The Emerald Pool, from a new block of the Alder Springs Vineyard, was fashioned from fruit grown in pure volcanic/gravel soils. The result is a wine offering notes of scorched earth, smoked meats, blackberries, cassis, and flowers. With more than 16% alcohol, superb stuffing, texture, and intensity, this beauty possesses tremendous power interwoven with considerable elegance and definition.

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