($50; a Chateauneuf du Pape-inspired, grenache-dominated blend that contains a lower percentage of syrah than the 2003 version) Medium red-ruby color. Highly distinctive nose features exotic dark berry and cherry liqueur aromas complicated by tar, black pepper and dried flowers. Powerful and liqueur-like but not at all overly sweet. This chewy, saline, slightly jammy wine expands impressively in the middle palate, throwing off notes of dark fruits, brown spices and pepper. Finishes with ripe, building tannins. As superripe as this is, it avoids coming across as roasted. Very impressive for North Coast grenache.

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The 2004s look very strong, with unexpected Rhone-like personalities, especially the 2004 Cuvee Moriah. A blend of 69% Grenache and 31% Mourvedre, Counoise, Roussanne, and Syrah, it exhibits aromas of garrigue, tapenade, kirsch liqueur, and blackberries. A full-throttle, California-styled southern Rhone-like cuvee, it is a big, meaty, juicy fruit and spice bomb to consume over the next 5-7 years.

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Wine is a classic big California syrah with high alcohol. Still dark in color with good fruit and spice.