($235) Deep red. Powerful dark berry aromas are complicated by cured tobacco, licorice, cedar and incense. Very sweet but poised, with expressive red and dark berry flavors supported by gentle acidity and framed by silky tannins. Gains weight with air, finishing lush and chewy, with outstanding length. As I went back to this it seemed to grow fresher.

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A first-growth quality offering is consistently produced from the Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard. The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard (579 cases) offers aromas of tobacco leaf, creme de cassis, graphite, flowers, and licorice in its full-bodied, powerful personality. There are layers of concentration, a multidimensional mouthfeel, and beautiful purity as well as nobility in this stunner. It should drink well for 20-25 years.

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This pushes ripeness to the edge, yet it's balanced, with spicy currant, cedary oak and hints of anise and cassis that are complex and deep without being heavy. The tannins are ripe and polished. 534 cases made.

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