($55) Slightly hazy, pale color. Musky, rather wild nose offers lime, smoke and game. Then big, round and rich in the mouth, with complex notes of lime, flowers, crushed stone, minerals and sulfides. A very smooth, large-scaled chardonnay, finishing with sneaky persistence and a bit of youthful harshness that calls for 6 to 12 months of patience.

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From Mendocino, the 2004 Chardonnay Alder Springs Vineyard offers sumptuous aromas of orange blossoms, crushed rocks, and honeyed grapefruit. This medium-bodied, refreshing, complex effort is best drunk over the next year.

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Lots of wonderful, rich flavors, starting with a smoky, toasty aroma of oak and leading to a concentrated band of ripe pear, fig, hazelnut and anise. The flavors pick up steam on the finish and offer subtle nuances that echo mineral and sage. 683 cases made.

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