($175-$200) Good full ruby-red. Expressive aromas of currant, coffee, dark chocolate, tobacco, mocha and smoked meat. Juicy, spicy and classically dry; rather tight and backward for 2004 and not a particularly fleshy style, even if it's nicely sweetened by nutty oak. But this boasts excellent precision and verve and the aromatic finishing flavors build slowly and steadily. Firm acids and tannins give this plenty of backbone for development in bottle. With extended aeration, the texture became silkier.

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[70 CS 70%, CF 12%, M 15%, PV 3%; 40 hl/ha average yield; 57% of production went into the grand vin so that there is actually less available of the 2004 than of 2003; 92% new oak but barrels have been progressively less toasted since 2000]. An extremely distinctive wine ? almost mid Atlantic rather than Pauillac and therefore of course very winning. Very dark purple. Hidden, deep-flavoured nose. Some rather sweet notes ? even ripe Merlot notes which dominate at the moment. Very smooth and flattering in texture with real polish ? very supple tannins with lots of fruit on the front palate. Not nearly as dry as one would expect of a first growth Pauillac ? almost a hint of Opus One in texture? No hint of oak. Very interesting and not at all severe.

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The dense ruby/purple-hued, fresh, vivacious 2004 Mouton-Rothschild offers hints of new saddle leather, truffles, cassis, and pain grille, zesty acidity, a touch of austerity, and a medium-bodied, streamlined, restrained personality. This rich, pure claret will require patience as it needs a decade of cellaring to shed its lofty tannins.

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Beautiful aromas of crushed berries and chocolate, with hints of Indian spices. Full-bodied, with silky, velvety tannins and a long, caressing finish. A lovely wine for the vintage. This is the first wine from the new winemaking team at Mouton and is showing really well. 23,000 cases made.

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