($225-$239) Bright red-ruby. Knockout nose features boysenberry, currant, cedar, graphite and mocha. Suave, gentle and sweet, already displaying ineffable inner-mouth perfume. The 17% merlot component injects a silky component, and the oak element adds a complementary sweetness. Complex, lush, horizontal finish saturates the mouth with flavor. It was not clear to me in April that the 2006 would exceed this-and it will certainly take longer to reach full maturity in bottle.

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Pretty low key on the nose. Easy to miss - there are no bells and whistles on this wine at four years old. In a very teenage phase at the moment. A little raw and unresolved. Medium weight. Just a slight lack of sweet fruit on the mid palate. It is certainly 2004 in character and has pretty good length, but there is a slightly green note on the finish.

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The supple-textured 2004 Chateau Margaux is reminiscent of the 2001 or 1999. It exhibits a superb blue/purple color to the rim as well as sweet aromas of flowers, blueberries, creme de cassis, licorice, and smoke, superb fruit intensity, medium body, classic elegance, and silky, sweet tannin in the long finish. This beauty can be drunk now or cellared for two decades or more.

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Subtle and complex aromas of crushed raspberry, milk chocolate and cigar box. Full-bodied, silky and refined, with layers of fruit and seductive tannins. Very long. A Margaux with finesse and reserve. 12,500 cases made.

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