($325; cabernet sauvignon with 5% merlot) Deep medium ruby. Complex, pure aromas of cassis, mocha, brown spices, licorice and menthol. Chewy, lush and aromatic in the mouth, with remarkable intensity and depth for a vineyard planted in 1999. Thoroughly ripe flavors of dark berries and spices. What I like best about this wine is its layered texture and very sweet, ripe, fine-grained tannins. This is the new venture of husband-and-wife team Bob Levy (winemaker at Harlan Estate and Bond) and Martha McClellan (Sloan and Blankiet), from a vineyard leased from McClellan's parents. The budbreak in this site on Franz Valley School Road, at an altitude of 600 to 700 feet, occurs later than in Oakville, and afternoon wind routinely cools things down during the peak of summer, according to Levy.

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Their debut vintage, the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, which was bottled earlier this year, is a fabulous effort. This 350-case cuvee boasts an opaque purple color as well as an expressive nose of scorched earth, blackberries, cassis, and hints of espresso, melted chocolate, licorice, and spice box. Rich and full-bodied, with silky tannin, tremendous texture, and a profound, multilayered mouthfeel, this sensational Cabernet should drink well for two decades or more.

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A rich, savory, extracted style, with strong mocha-espresso bean and spicy currant flavors that are intense, focused, long and persistent, ending with firm, ripe tannins. Combines power with finesse. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot.

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Slight burnt rubber flavor but with great body, concentration and complexity. Needs time to open.