($65) Yellow-gold. Open-knit and ripe, with a full-blown bouquet of yellow plum, candied pear and cling peach. Broad and rich, showing an array of ripe orchard and pit fruits, with a gentle hint of acidity giving lift. Suave and velvety on the impressively long and deep finish.

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The 2004 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard (only 900 cases) possesses tangy, fresh acidity in addition to a sweet perfume of citrus oils, wet stones, and subtle hazelnuts. Tightly-knit, but full-bodied, ripe, poised, and refreshing, it will keep for 5-7 years.

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The high-toned oak is toasty and smoky, with a touch of vanilla and yeasty dough scents. This is trim and focused on the palate, showing hints of green apple, citrus, lemon and cedary oak, with a long finish.

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Like a 1er Cru sauternes, this wine is light-bodied and lithe yet offers an incredible range of flavor complexity. Words cannot describe how magical this wine is. Every sip was a different sensory experience. Light gold robe with a hint of green. Acacia flower, meyer lemon, mineral, wet leaves and sea spray in the bouquet. Honeysuckle, vanilla, fennel and a touch of anise on the mid-palate. Long, long, clean finish. Glad I have another bottle of this in my cellar. Truly amazing.