($110) Full, deep ruby. Explosive aromas of red- and blackcurrant, tobacco, minerals and menthol. Sweet and fine-grained, with terrific fruit intensity and balance for a second wine-and a sense of completeness. Vinous, ripely tannic and long, but the tannins of the 2005 are more refined.

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I was blown away by the 2004 The Maiden, which out of bottle is even better than it was from barrel. This wine exhibits a rather flamboyant scorched earth, lead pencil, incense, licorice, and blackberry and cassis-scented nose and flavors. The wine has superb concentration and is opulent, fleshy, and very much in keeping with the style of the vintage. Despite its accessibility, I suspect this wine will drink well for at least two decades.

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Big, dark, rich, intense and firmly tannic, with a massive, layered core of spicy currant, mocha, black cherry and blackberry fruit that's deep and concentrated, unfolding with a remarkable measure of grace and finesse.

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