($47; 100% sangiovese) Good full ruby. Richer and even more minerally on the nose than the '04 Rancia, offering plenty of orange zest, lily and pleasantly tart red cherry aromas. Lush, very ripe red fruit flavors and a salty edge give this immediate appeal, but make it a bit less refined than the Rancia in '04. The tannins, though, are smoother and slide effortlessly along the very long finish.

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The 2004 Fontalloro (100% Sangiovese) comes across as fresher and brighter than the Rancia. Light on its feet, this graceful, delicate wine opens with sweet, perfumed aromatics that meld into raspberries, flowers, spices and a touch of sweet oak that lingers on the finish. It offers remarkable clarity and precision in a pure, focused style, with superb balance and finessed tannins.

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A little raisiny on the nose, with hints of flowers and blackberry. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a juicy finish. A little austere, but structured and very racy. Needs time. Sangiovese. 2,900 cases made.

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Better on day 2 but good with air on day 1...drink or hold