($53) Medium red with an amber edge. Musky aromas of crushed raspberry and spicecake sexed up by fennel, tarragon and white fruit notes of fresh peach and apricot. Moderately dense, spicy and lively, with the rather exotic white fruit flavors joined by a floral element in the mouth. Not a fat or fleshy style but nicely supple. Finishes with lingering sweetness and a chalky quality to its tannins. Idiosyncratic Brunello, still a bit youthfully tight in spite of its pliant texture. (Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY)

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Fanti's 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is an inky, opulent wine bursting with dark blueberries, blackberries, violets and spices. Despite the wine's richness, for the first time in many a year additional layers of complexity have begun to emerge. The wine possesses plenty of density as well as richness to balance the tannins, along with an elegant finish.

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Shows blackberries and dried flowers on the nose. Full-bodied, with lots of ripe berry and cream character. Rich and flavorful. Long and beautiful. It's layered and velvety. Seductive. Drink now. 5,610 cases made.

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