($90) Good deep red. Deep, vinous nose combines redcurrant, menthol, graphite, flowers and medicinal herbs. Big, round, rich and savory, showing more soil-inflected saline and mineral flavors than primary fruit. This focused, taut wine is not made in a sweet style but is quite elegant, finishing classically dry, with a broad dusting of tannins and a distinctive stony element. Give this some time in the cellar. (Empson U.S.A., Alexandria, VA)

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The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is simply awesome in the way it marries a gorgeous expression of ripe, dark fruit and a classic sense of structure. A rich, enveloping wine, it flows onto the palate with masses of black cherries, minerals, spices, tar, new leather and smoke. This is an exceptionally well-balanced and finessed Brunello full of character. The tannins remain rather firm but there is enough sheer density of fruit that opening a bottle on the young side is still likely to be rewarding. Simply put, Fuligni's 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is not to be missed.

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Has a wonderful nose of roses, strawberries and sandalwood. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and an aftertaste of berry, cedar and light coffee bean. Caresses every inch of your palate. Very fine, yet chewy. Needs time still.

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Acidic, fairly typical Brunello flavor profile, great nose