($115) Deep red-ruby. Deep but reticent aromas of dark raspberry, cocoa powder, hot rocks and minerals, with notes of menthol and wintermint. Very firmly built and backward, conveying a tightly coiled spring for a 2004, and an almost Saint-Estephe-like menthol austerity. Though a bit tough and youthfully green, this firmly structured wine is quite aromatic on the back and opened nicely with aeration. Give this a lot of time in the decanter if you plan to open a bottle anytime soon.

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Straddles the Napa-Bordeaux horse, with well-ripened, dark cherry fruit and sweet vanillin oak melding with dusty herbs, forest floor, cedar and tobacco notes. Marvelous concentration and depth; firmly tannic, yet also generous. Could be Christian Moueix’s best Dominus. (LM)$115  

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The elegant, dark plum/purple/garnet-colored 2004 Dominus exhibits a big, sweet, cedary, roasted herb, mocha, black cherry liqueur, black currant, and earth-scented perfume. Medium to full-bodied with silky tannin as well as a luscious mouthfeel and finish, it should be more accessible in its youth than many of its predecessors, but easily last for two decades.

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Firm, tight and concentrated, with dried currant, black cherry and wild berry fruit that's well-structured, finishing with a tight core of tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 5,600 cases made.

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It seems I try this label only once or twice a year, but I have found a lot to like in the 2004 recently. It has a muscular weight to the nose with a seductively concentrated cedar, currant and spice that melds into the mocha and sweet cherry found on the front of the palate, leading into finely-wrought flavors of black currant, delicate sandalwood and a soft finish

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