($90) Deep red-ruby. Complex but youthfully reticent aromas of raspberry, loam, rose petal, graphite, mint and tobacco. Rich, fat, chewy and quite dry, with compelling density and breadth and terrific juicy lift to the red fruit and spice flavors. A huge wine whose palate-saturating finish features broad, building tannins and superb length. Showing considerably more oak today than the Pajana but elegant nevertheless. This classically dry Barolo needs a good seven or eight years of cellaring. From vines ranging from 20 to 35 years of age, planted on compact clay-and-limestone soil.

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The 2004 Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra sweeps across the palate with stunning depth and expansiveness in its dark cherries, menthol, spices, chocolate and sweet toasted oak. It offers exceptional length and delineation, with a note of freshness that provides lift on the close. It is a profound effort from Domenico Clerico.

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Subtle and perfumed, with blackberry, truffle and hints of Spanish cedar. Full-bodied, with superfine tannins and a long, caressing finish. Balanced and very pretty.

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