($40) Good ruby-red. Expressive aromas of plum, redcurrant, tobacco and gravel. Supple and juicy, with good energy to the flavors of cassis, flowers and tobacco. Very savory wine with subtle sweetness of fruit. Finishes broad and sweet but quite firm, with sneaky length.

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Thankfully, this estate appears to have scaled down their use of new oak as the wood component is much more subtle than in previous vintages. The classic southern Graves version of elegance, the 2004 Domaine de Chevalier exhibits aromas of lead pencil shavings, sweet cherry and strawberry fruit, cedar, spice, and subtle smoke. Medium-bodied with outstanding purity, richness, and texture, this soft, round beauty is ideal for drinking over the next 15+ years.

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Aromas of blackberry and delicate tobacco, with just a hint of toasty oak. Medium- to full-bodied, with fine tannins and a caressing finish. This is all in finesse and length. 7,500 cases made.

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Did not impress. Hasn't evolved nicely over the few years since I last tasted it. The '04-vintage greenness shines through a mostly well made wine. Drink up now.