($60) Good bright medium ruby. Pungent aromas of black cherry, black raspberry and pepper, with a slightly raw note from the stems (this was vinified with 50% whole clusters). Dense and minerally, with a nicely restrained sweetness; not at all over the top in spite of its 14.8% alcohol, the highest of the Copain syrahs in vintage '04. Finishes broad and peppery, with substantial but ripe tannins.

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Perhaps my favorite grand cru site for Central Coast Syrah is the James Berry Vineyard, which is planted in pure limestone soil on the west side of Paso Robles. Seventy-five percent whole clusters are used. The riveting, opaque purple-tinged 2004 Syrah James Berry Vineyard displays a sumptuous bouquet of scorched earth, blackberries, cassis, tar, and licorice. It cuts a full-bodied swath across the palate with multiple layers of flavor, a huge texture, and fabulous freshness as well as vibrancy, no doubt because of the limestone soils. This is a killer Syrah to drink over the next 10-12 years.

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