($50; 100% whole clusters; just one of the six barrels was new) Saturated ruby. Crushed dark berries and a hint of graphite on the nose. Densely packed but youthfully tight, even a bit clenched, yet ultimately more giving than the 2003 version from whole clusters. The flavors of sweet black fruits, spices and woodsmoke are further brightened by a peppery topnote. Very strong material here, and it's refreshing to taste syrah from a top site that's not overwhelmed by barrel influence.

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From a famous site in the Santa Lucia Highlands, the 2004 Syrah Garys' Vineyard (100% whole clusters used) is an opaque purple-colored powerhouse offering a beautiful perfume of blackberries, licorice, pepper, underbrush/forest floor, and subtle new oak. With great intensity, beautiful purity, and a spectacular finish, it should provide immense pleasure over the next 10 years.

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