($150; 15.2% alcohol) Bright, saturated ruby. Superripe aromas of blackberry liqueur and melted chocolate, with an almost roasted, porty quality. Large-scaled, fat and thick, if not especially complex or delineated. This distinctly outsized wine is nearly too big for the mouth. The porty ripeness carries through on the palate. Impressive for its sheer presence and depth of fruit, but this could get tiring to drink. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins and a whiff of walnut skin. This one should come with a warning label. Recommended for those who believe that more is more.

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The super-expressive 2004 Cobos Malbec Marchiori Vineyard is opaque purple/black in color. Its perfume of toasty oak, mineral, lavender, blueberry, and black cherry is very sexy and leads to a complex, spicy, rich, chewy wine which also manages to combine elegance and power. Its length and superb balance suggest another eight years of cellaring with a drinking window from 2016 to 2040.

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Very muscular, with lots of bacony toast and coffee leading the way for dark, ripe layers of currant, fig and blackberry. Ultrarich, with exotic smoke and spice notes on the finish. Needs to unwind a bit, but shows impressive depth and focus.

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