($100) Dark violet. A huge, almost exotic bouquet of blackberry, boysenberry, candied cherry, vanilla, cinnamon and violet pastille borders on overwhelming (this would make great incense) yet retains remarkable vibrancy. Creamy and deep in the mouth, the candied and liqueur-like dark berry flavors showing superb concentration and energy, with a lush note of fruitcake coming up on the back end. Flat-out superb, with a combination of sweetness, depth and precision that's rare for grenache from anywhere.

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The most backward, structured, tannic, and ageworthy of these offerings is always the Grenache Romas. The estate's flagship Grenache, it is fashioned from 86-year-old vines planted on ironstone soils at the highest elevation of the Blewitt Springs Vineyard. The 2004 Grenache Romas exhibits gorgeous notes of loamy soil, truffles, kirsch, spice box, blackberries, and licorice. This full-bodied, powerful, tannic 2004 will benefit from another 1-3 years of bottle age, and should age easily for 10-15+ years.

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Dense and peppery, but not heavy, with an expressive range of blackberry, cherry and pomegranate flavors that sail through the long, open-textured finish. A lovely spicy, peppery component lifts this Grenache's personality out of the ordinary.

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