Bright gold. Intensely spicy pear, peach and apricot pit aromas, with a strong suggestion of sweet butter. Round and weighty but at the same time juicy, with focused peach and pear nectar flavors enlivened by exotic spice and mineral notes and deepened by honey and fresh cream tones. Gains in freshness with air, picking up strong mineral and tangy citrus zest notes. "The 2005 will be more elegant," Chave believes.

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The 2004 Hermitage blanc, which hit 15% natural alcohol, is another superb effort, continuing a succession of totally profound white Hermitages from 2003, 2004, and 2005. As many readers know, this small family producer has been making wine in Hermitage since 1481! The 2004 (about 1000 cases) reveals a light gold color, terrific finesse and elegance in spite of its enormous power, unctuosity, and richness. Of course, it is not as honeyed as the otherworldly 2003 (which hit 16% natural alcohol) but it is an amazingly full-bodied, powerful wine with pervasive honeysuckle, peach liqueur, and nectarine notes intermixed with licorice, quince, and acacia flowers. This is gorgeous wine which should evolve for 20-25 years.

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Very rich, but cuts like a knife, with dried apricot, marzipan and wet stone notes leading the way for richer flavors of candle wax, heather, honey and white peach on the back end. The long, extremely taut finish seems almost tannic; this is built for a long life. Try now, or forget it in the cellar. 1,500 cases made.

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