($90) Dark red. Wild, funky, game- and earth-accented dark fruit aromas, with strong iron and graphite components. Packed with bitter cherry and dark berry skin flavors, plus deeper espresso and dark chocolate notes. Finishes with powerful tannins and real grip, suggesting that this serious, structured Hermitage needs to be left alone for some time.

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More stuffing than I thought last year appears in the 2004 Ermitage La Sizeranne. This wine reveals a dark ruby/purple color, elegant notes of road tar, black currants, sweet incense, and relatively lush tannin for the vintage.

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tasted oxidised