($240) Good ruby-red. Black raspberry, mocha and smoky oak on the confectionery nose. Quite sweet in the mouth but youthfully tight today, with red fruit and licorice flavors dominating. This has a rather Graves-like mouthfeel. Here the tannins come across as more obvious and less fine than those of the 2005 example.

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Readers looking for a fruit-forward vintage should check out the 2004 Melbury. A sensational wine with an inky bluish/purple color, fabulous blueberry and blackberry fruit with hints of lead pencil, acacia flower, pain grille, and spice, the tannins are supple and the wine exuberant, flamboyant, ripe, rich, and long. This is sensational stuff that can be drunk now or cellared for 20-25 years.

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Fresh black cherry, currant and plum aromas are pure and riveting. Firm, rich and polished, with hints of nutmeg, rose petal and wild berry that are deep and complex. Intense, focused and concentrated, this is beautifully balanced, deep and persistent, with ripe, integrated tannins. 573 cases made.

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