($210-$225) Bright red-ruby. Brooding, primary aromas of black fruits, licorice and leather, with a hint of espresso. Juicy and tightly wound, with somewhat bound-up flavors of black cherry and licorice. Less fleshy and ripe than the Pavie-Decesse that preceded it; gives the impression of being more "worked." Not an easy style. Finishes with slightly drying tannins.

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A spectacular garagiste effort from a five-acre, 45-year-old vineyard (90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon), the 2004 Bellevue Mondotte was fashioned from yields of 15 hectoliters per hectare. The result is an opaque purple-colored wine of provocative richness and intensity with an extraordinarily thick, juicy style, and unbridled amounts of creme de cassis, black cherry liqueur, a structured minerality, and sexy, toasty new oak. This full-bodied, powerful, extravagant, fascinating St.-Emilion is nearly over the top. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, and tipping the scales at nearly 14% natural alcohol, it should drink well for 20-25 years.

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This is really beautiful, with crushed blackberry and plum. The nose is intense. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and an aftertaste of berry, new oak and light earth.

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One of my favorites of 2003, this vintage unfortunately did not show nearly as well as the previous. Aromas of incense, Asian spice and a lot of heat were immediate impressions, and the palate exposed the over-extraction w/ a lack of expected fat and unctuous sensations that this wine typically brings to the table. There was little charm and the tannins concluded w/ a chalky texture that punctuated the woody flavors of the wine. It seems that 2003 played right into Perse?s hands w/ this particular style of a micro-cuvee, but that type of vinification doesn'tseem to work w/ the 2004 set of climactic conditions. I hope the palate will fill out in time (could be another example of the irregular showings in the 'Pavie phenomenon').