($65) Good full medium ruby. Black raspberry, gunflint and white pepper on the nose, complicated by a whiff of game; conveys strong varietal and vineyard character. Dense and chewy on the palate, with dark raspberry, smoke and leather flavors complemented by a saline nuance and a hint of chocolate liqueur. Not hugely sweet but chocolatey and long on the back, finishing with chewy, ripe tannins. Another fascinating syrah from a site that has already proven to be one of the best for this variety in northern California.

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The deep blue/purple-colored 2004 Syrah Alder Springs Vineyard Homage to Ed Olivera (90% Syrah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon) exhibits a sensational perfume of mountain-grown black raspberries, blueberries, and flowers. The wine reveals wonderful structure and definition along with oodles of concentrated, sweet jammy fruit and abundant glycerin. This beauty should drink well for 10-12 years.

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Great bottle (cork closure)...this has taken on some complexity since last bottle...a little mint/eucalyptus/bacon on the nose now...still a big wine but with superb balance.