($65; 80% new oak) Fairly pale, green-tinged color. Initially more reticent on the nose, but opened to show an exotic apple, cinnamon and creme brulee character. Fat, broad, rich and very dry, but not yet expressing itself. With less obvious mid-palate flavor complexity today, one is aware of the 15.8% alcohol. But this highly concentrated chardonnay finishes with excellent persistence.

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The 2004 Chardonnay Reuling Vineyard is reminiscent of a Montrachet with its stony, liquified mineral character. Notions of quince, white currants, stone fruits, white peaches, and spring flowers also emerge from this amazingly full-bodied, powerful, backward effort. This Chardonnay tends to be aged in 100% new oak (which is totally concealed) and is bottled without fining or filtration. Consequently, if it has just been shipped or moved, it can reveal a slight haze.

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Pure, delicious Chardonnay, sleek, rich and concentrated, yet amazingly elegant and refined. The mix of ripe pear, apple, citrus and hazelnut are detailed and sharply focused and on the finish the flavors keep reverberating, ending with a long, seamless aftertaste with subtle hazelnut and nutmeg nuances. 230 cases made.

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