($125) Bright ruby. Hugely ripe, wild aromas of blackberry, smoke, chocolate, iron and blood. Then very ripe and dense but tightly wound, almost musclebound today, and not as sweet as the nose suggests despite showing almost candied dark fruit flavors. Finishes with huge tannins that are less fine and sophisticated than those of the 2005. Perhaps in an awkward stage today.

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The 2004 Proprietary Red H Block Hudson Vineyard, which is a blend of 70% Cabernet Franc and 30% Merlot, has a dark ruby/purple color and an elegant herbal, blueberry, and raspberry-scented nose with some lead pencil shavings and earth. It lacks the intensity and depth of the finest vintages, but if drunk as a charming, front-end loaded wine, it should provide pleasure for the next 7-8 years.

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This had a gorgeously inviting nose of raspberry, black currant, tobacco and coco powder. Unfortunately, the palate did not deliver on that promise. Coco powder, tobacco, blackberry, black currant, bell pepper and olive flavors were fighting with rough tannins and some bitterness. Tanzer suggested this might have simply been in an awkward stage when he last tasted it. I think that stage is proving to be rather permanent.