($170; cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and cabernet franc) Very saturated dark ruby, almost black. Intense bell pepper slaps you across the face, with aromas of dark cherry, cigar box and underbrush following. Dense, highly concentrated and intensely flavored, with harmonious acidity framing the sweet black fruit and black pepper flavors, and little of the bell pepper character showing on the palate. Finishes long, with very silky tannins. But the green pepper aroma is neither typical nor endearing in what is usually one of Italy's greatest wines. Perhaps I have caught this at an awkward stage. (Chateau Ste. Michelle Estates, Woodinville, WA)

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The thrilling 2004 Solaia (75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Franc) is clearly one of the highlights of this great vintage. Endowed with massive amounts of concentration as well as structure, it is a big, powerful Solaia that does not sacrifice elegance or balance in its full-bodied personality. Packed with the essence of blackberries, chocolate, tar, smoke, cassis and menthol, this layered beauty exhibits great length and a persistent, warmly alcoholic finish. It has been stunning on the three occasions I have had it so far and is not to be missed.

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Shows beautiful, complex aromas of flowers, currant and Christmas cake. Full-bodied, chewy and powerful. Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc.

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