($45; syrah planted on sea shells) Deep ruby. Crushed dark berries, smoke and minerals on the varietally accurate nose. A juicy, dry, intense and tightly wound fruit bomb, with a crushed berry character and a whiff of bitter chocolate reduction. Syrah in a rather Old World style, with an exhilarating sugar/acid balance and lovely length. Fresher than a wine with a 3.95 pH has any right to be. This vineyard was grafted over to pinot grigio after the 2004 harvest, said Schoener.