Recommended For You
International Wine Cellar
Author: Stephen Tanzer
Issue: Issue 131
($189) Good full red. Very reserved nose hints at wild cherry, minerals, mocha and game. Fat, dense and silky; classically dry but with superb breadth. Less expressive than the Griottes but very pure and long, finishing with a building whiplash of flavor and compelling lingering perfume. This calls for a good seven or eight years of patience.
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Trust Rating: 97
Tasted On: 11/15/2010
Drink Dates: 2016-2016
750 ml Chapelle-Chambertin
Grand Cru Red
Note: from a .60 ha parcel
Producer note: As is his usual practice, Laurent Ponsot was one of the last growers to begin picking reporting that he began on "September 29th. We had some oidium but really not too much as we treated often and I have an extremely competent team. We did do some sorting but it was really only because of the hail, not for rot. We had yields in the 30 hl/ha range, which is higher than usual for us but low for the vintage. As is my custom, I rarely taste the wines for the first 6 months after they go into barrel and when I did, I was shocked as I found them better than the '02s were at the same point in time. I have fallen in love with this vintage as it's both very pinot and très terroir. The malos were very long and slow and I have not racked them since the malos finished as I want the wines to feed off the fine lees." Ponsot's 04's are among the stars of the vintage as he has crafted an extremely strong set of wines and while one expects the Clos de la Roche and Clos St. Denis to be outstanding, this is perhaps the best Chapelle I have seen in many vintages. As to the domaine's '03s, several of them have turned out better than I originally previewed, in particular the Griotte, which is flat out terrific. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL and Atherton Wine Imports, Atherton, CA; Morris & Verdin, Goedhuis & Co., Ballantynes, Lay and Wheeler and Rare & Fine Wine Co., all UK).
Tasting note: Ponsot does not usually serve the Clos St. Denis before the Chapelle and when I asked about it, he simply said "you'll see why." While I don't quite agree that the Chapelle is superior to the fabulous Clos St. Denis, it's remarkably close and in contrast to a number of vintages, the comparison is much closer than it usually is. For starters, this is an amazingly dense wine for the vintage, both in terms of the sheer volume of fruit and the layered, opulent, almost thick flavors that are impressively concentrated, complex and loaded with mid-palate sap. It's not quite as deep but there is plenty of balanced and integrated structure and superb length. This too is a serious old school burgundy that will live for a very long time.
Tasted: Jan 01, 2007 Score: 92 Drink: 2016+
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