International Wine Cellar
Author: Stephen Tanzer
Issue: Issue 126
($45) Deep ruby-red. Wild, meaty aromas of jammy berries, menthol and roasted herbs; distinctly Northern Rhone-like. Powerful verging on aggressive, with jammy dark fruit and shoe polish flavors and almost painful tannins. The crushed dark berry flavors turn a bit dry and edgy on the finish. Ultimately a wine of limited nuance, despite the tiny crop level. Mahle admitted that these vines, planted on volcanic rock, produced too much desiccated, high-alcohol fruit in the heat of 2004 (2002, 2003 and 2005 were more successful here) and that most of it was declassified.
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