($245) Bright, saturated ruby. Complex, superripe nose hints at chocolate, smoke, dried herbs, soy sauce and leather, along with a dried fruit character suggesting some surmaturite Rich, broad and fine-grained, but much less sweet than the 2002. A firm spine of acidity gives this structured wine a slightly spiky quality today. Finishes with granular, tongue-dusting tannins that are less pliant than those of the 2002.

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The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, now in bottle, is an amazing wine with a dense purple color and a gorgeous nose of new saddle leather, espresso roast, licorice, chocolate, and enormous quantities of black currant, cherry, and fruit intermixed with smoked meats. Full-bodied, powerful, with a broad savory mouthfeel, a multi-layered texture, and no hardness in the finish, this wine has evolved beautifully, and can be drunk now or cellared for 25+ years.

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Dark, plush, intense and concentrated, with a deep core of ripe currant, blackberry, wild berry and cassis. The well-integrated oak has a roasted coffee flavor, and though this is quite tannic, the tannins are ripe. Ends with a long, persistent finish.

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Come on 80, really? You may not be a fan but that is absurd. This wine has good fruit, a bit smokey with dark earthy flavor. Very textured with good finish.